Seeking out the lesser-known just might be the answer when looking for interesting, thought-provoking wines from Australia. The country is well-known for its mass market guzzlers, but there’s a huge, other world lurking behind the big names.

Yellow Tail

I’m sure you’ve all heard of, drank, or seen Yellow Tail wine. The brand, since its launch in 2001, has had quite a pernicious effect on Aussie wine. The prototype, a fun and fruity Shiraz, was quick to catch on, and in truth, a clever marketing success story, indeed bringing Australia into the limelight. But before long, this yellow label with the kangaroo effectively came to define the entire nation’s output as cheap ‘n cheerful.

Further damaging is that Yellow Tail, owned by industry giant Casella, together with a few other high-volume-bent mega-companies, make up 87 per cent of exports – again, inflaming that misrepresentation and masking the plethora of gems currently being produced.

This aspect, along with the Aussies’ affinity for screwcaps (of which many high-end bottles are even sealed) are two of about three preconceptions abetting that image of inferiority.

The third misled notion is that Down Under is all scorching hot. Antarctica-influenced ocean currents significantly cool down some areas such as Tasmania which is a hot spot – better, cool spot – for growing sparkling wine-destined grapes. The Margaret River region is often likened to cool, wet Bordeaux, and makes world-class, sinewy, polished wines.

Fortunately, it’s no case of “bricks without straw”

While the Aussies might be kicking themselves in the foot for having first introduced grape varietal labelling, as opposed to place names, it should be noted that as the fifth largest country in the world, roughly half the size of Canada, Australia is nothing if not varied in terms of climate, soils, and grapes as any famous European country, resulting in multiple styles as well as polar price point extremes, some even into the super-premium.

But the far majority of producers are on the premium plan operating small-scale. Often family-owned with successive generations in the field, they’re working with small batches of grapes, some of very old vines – like up to 200 years old.

And, their industry is just as onto the trends as anywhere else. Keep an eye out for racy whites made with Vermentino or the more floral Fiano. Grüner Veltliner, too, often made into pét-nat and skin contact versions.

Of such has been their springboard, what they call ‘alternative’ varieties, playing host to numerous foreign grapes, Italian, chiefly, well-suited to the warmer areas. Personally, it’s a term I dislike as it automatically suggests that there are ‘main’ varieties (ie. Shiraz (aka Syrah), Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon) – again, only reinforcing the impression of stagnation of style. ‘Alternative’ also seems to convey some desperate cry like “This is our last chance!”.

But be it Shiraz, or say Cabernet Sauvignon, in the hands of small players working with quality fruit of exceptional terroirs, the wine is altogether a different beast. Below are some suggestions.

  • Two Hands Sexy Beast McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, $34.50 SAQ #11881931 – The owners of Two Hands winery are very hands-on in their approach, enabling them to pour their heart into every bottle. McLaren Vale vines benefit from cooling influences, differentiating it from nearby regions, thus revealed in the distinctively silken Cabs that hail from here. Deeply-coloured, Sexy Beast delivers high-toned black-berry and -cherry flavours, subtle hints of spearmint, anise, and vanilla brimming over a backbone of ripe, grippy tannins. Just enough acidity. A slender texture fills out towards a chewy backend and long finish. Pairing: slow-cooked blade roast or gnocchi with meat sauce.
  • Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, $22.95, LCBO #138818 – Tahbilk operates from its carbon neutral winery located in Goulburn Valley, Nagambie Lakes district to be exact, and is known for being involved in many sustainability projects. An elegant Cab of value-for-money, showing precision of flavour, restraint and length. Ripe blackcurrant, sweet and savoury spice, faint vanilla as well as soft graphite and earthy nuances are supported by a confident backbone of fine tannins and mouth-watering acidity. Pairing: filet mignon, caramelized onions, and tender fingerling potatoes.
  • Zonte’s Footstep Love Symbol Grenache 2021, $21.95 LCBO #668582  – The label is playful, but the wine – quite a grown-up Grenache. Explosive flavours in the red fruit spectrum. Grenache is paler and less full-bodied than Cab, but Love Symbol is relatively generous nonetheless with great oak-leant texture. Pairing: turkey tournedos with roasted root vegetables.
  • Taltarni Taché Brut Rosé Sparkling 2014, $26.95 LCBO #967398 – Made with all three classic Champagne grapes grown in Western Victoria and Tasmania, this sparkling rosé  lends red berry notes complemented by doughy, biscuity ones. Depth and freshness. Bottle-fermented. Pairing: Middle Eastern mujadara topped with fresh goat cheese.